Gutter Installation Services

Before you book

Rain gutter installation: choosing the right new system

The size of a gutter should come from the roof, not from what was there before. A large roof plane, a steep pitch or a valley that funnels two roof sections into one corner all increase how much water arrives at the gutter in a heavy storm. Standard 5-inch K-style gutters suit many smaller roofs; 6-inch gutters carry roughly 40 percent more and are the better choice on larger or steeper roofs and in heavy-rain regions. Downspouts matter as much as the gutter: 3x4-inch downspouts carry far more than 2x3-inch ones.

Material choice usually comes down to aluminum for most homes, steel where hail or ladders are a concern, copper for historic or high-end homes, and vinyl only for small, low-cost jobs in mild climates. Aluminum gauge matters too: 0.027-inch is standard, 0.032-inch is noticeably stiffer and resists denting and sagging better.

Seamless gutters are formed on site from a coil to the exact length of each run, so the only joints are at corners and outlets. That removes most of the places where sectional gutters leak. On most homes, seamless aluminum with hidden hangers is the best value installation available.

Before signing, check that the quote covers removal of the old gutters, fascia inspection and repair if needed, the number and size of downspouts, hanger type and spacing, and where each downspout will discharge. A quote that lists only linear feet of gutter often leaves the most important details unsaid.

Signs of an incorrect gutter installation

Many of the problems that bring homeowners to a repair page start on installation day. Water sitting in the trough a day after rain means the fall was set wrong. A gutter that sits above the roof edge, rather than tucked just below it, lets water shoot over the back in heavy rain. Hangers spaced more than about three feet apart let the run bow between them under snow or wet leaves. Downspouts that discharge straight onto the foundation, or onto a walkway that freezes, mean nobody planned where the water would go.

Ask for a walk-round when the job is finished. Run a hose at the far end of each run and watch it reach the outlet, look along the gutter line for dips, and check that every downspout ends in an extension or a drain, not a puddle.

Roofing and gutters: timing a new roof and new gutters

If a roof replacement is due within a few years, it is usually better to do the roof first. Roofers often need to remove or loosen gutters to replace the drip edge and the first courses of shingles, and a new gutter can be dented or knocked out of line in the process. When both are being done together, agree who owns the roof edge detail: the drip edge or gutter apron should overlap into the back of the gutter so water cannot run between the two.

Where a gutter specialist and a roofer are on the same job, the gutter work normally follows the roof by a few days. Having one firm handle both can simplify the warranty, but check that the gutter work is not subcontracted to whoever is cheapest that week.

What happens on installation day

A typical single-family installation takes one day. The crew removes the old gutters and hauls them away, checks the fascia and repairs or replaces soft boards, then measures each run and either forms seamless lengths on site or cuts sectional lengths to size. Hangers go in at the spacing agreed in the quote, outlets are cut, the downspouts are fitted and strapped to the wall, and extensions or drain connections are added at the base. The last step is a water test of every run.

Larger homes, complex rooflines with many corners, three-story elevations and copper or half-round systems can take two to three days. Weather also matters: crews avoid forming and sealing in heavy rain or freezing temperatures.

Labor, materials and what you are paying for

On a typical aluminum job, labor is a large share of the price, because most of the work is measuring, hanging and sealing at height. That is why two quotes for the same length of gutter can differ: one may include fascia repair, hidden hangers at close spacing, extra downspouts and haul-away, and the other may not. Compare quotes line by line. For typical price ranges, see the gutter installation cost guide in our pricing section.

Gutter installation companies: independent installer or larger firm?

Independent gutter installers are often owner-operators who run one crew and one forming machine. They can be very good value and you usually deal with the person doing the work. Larger companies may offer more colors and profiles, faster scheduling and longer written warranties. Either way, ask for proof of liability insurance, a written quote that lists the materials, and a workmanship warranty in writing.

Residential and professional gutter installation

Residential gutter installation is the most common job in our network: new gutters on houses, garages and porches. Professional gutter installation means the installer measures each eave, sets a correct slope, uses hidden hangers at proper spacing and seals every outlet. Best rated and top rated gutter installers tend to share those habits, and they back their work with a written warranty.

Gutter fitting, the term used in some areas, covers the same job. A handyman gutter installation can be fine for a short run on a shed or single-story porch, but a full house is better handled by a gutter specialist.

Gutters with roofing, siding and heaters

Many homeowners install gutters at the same time as a new roof or siding, so the drip edge, trim and gutters all fit together. Roof and gutter restoration on older homes may combine repairs to both. In cold areas, gutter heater installation can be added while the gutters go up; gutter heater installers fit the cable before the gutter is closed in. On homes with metal roof sheets, roof sheet gutters need enough overhang and strong hangers. Clogged roof gutters on an old system are often the reason for a new installation.